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each has a clear role to play in creating this bra
Article publié le 10/08/2017

Bra long gown dress Making Notions Explained Coming up in my next post, I will tell you how to manipulate your materials to get what you want from them!

My last post reviewed bra making fabrics, swimwear manufacturer but as you well know, you need more than fabric to make a bra. Like most bras, the Marlborough calls for about a half dozen different notions. That may sound like a lot, but each has a clear role to play in creating this bra. Lets review them one by one.

Underarm costume manufacturer and Band Elastic

The purpose of the elastic in a bra is to keep the garment correctly positioned against the body so it can support the breasts.

For bras you should use lingerie elastic that has a soft plush finish on one side since it will be in direct contact with the body in the finished bra. Usually this elastic has a decorative "picot" edge on one side and a flat finish on the opposite edge. You can choose which edge you want to be visible in the finished the bra.

The Marlborough uses two different widths of lingerie elastic with a wider elastic used for the band to add more stability and support.

Strap Elastic

The role of the straps is to keep the bra in a stable position on the body. Strap elastic is used to provide some flexibility to the straps for comfort. It is typically shiny on one side and plush on the body facing side. There should be some stretch to the strap elastic but it should be a firm stretch, 50% tops.

The width of the strap elastic used for the bra varies by cup size with the larger cup sizes using wider elastic for increased stability. A wider strap also creates more visual harmony with the rest of the garment in larger cup sizes.

While the Marlborough uses strap elastic for the entire strap, if you want or need more stability in the straps, you can make the front portion of the strap from low to no movement fabric and use strap elastic for just the back portion of the strap. There are several options when it comes to straps so I will be posting about different strap variations soon.

Hook and Eye Closure

The hook and eye closure is used to securely fasten the bra around the body. The backing of the eyes should be soft, since it will be up against the body.

Larger cup sizes use a taller closure than smaller cup sizes. The increased height allows for a wider band which helps to provide more support.

Underwire Channeling or Casing

Underwires channeling or casing is used as a sturdy enclosure for the underwires. It also stabilizes the cup to frame seam and should be used regardless of whether or not you are using underwires in your bra. I prefer a plush underwire casing since it is soft against the body, as well as strong and durable.

It is possible to make your own casing out of fabric, but I will save that tutorial for a future post!

Underwires

Underwires support the breasts. They do this by spreading out out the stress of breast support from the cups into the band and I recommend using them to get the best lift and support possible from your bra.

Underwires are most commonly made of metal and come in a variety of diameters and lengths. I dont ever recommend plastic underwires since they splay too much across all cup sizes, negatively impacting their ability to provide support.

For the Marlborough, I used Bra-makers Supply regular size wires. If your wires are too short, they will not work. If your wires are too long, you can cut them the the correct length. When cutting wires for a bra, be sure to allow for a minimum of 3/8 extra room in the underwire casing for wire play and to enable the casing to be stitched closed. I have a fun new way of sealing off the tips of cut wires that I plan to post soon.

Rings and Sliders

Rings and sliders provide a mechanism to make bra straps adjustable. (Note, only sliders are pictured above.)

The most durable rings and sliders are made of metal and coated in nylon. Color selection has been getting better as of late but the most widely available colors are white, beige and black. If you can't find a color match for your project, you can do what I do: use gold or silver rings and sliders or just go with a sturdy clear plastic set.

The width of the rings and sliders you will use corresponds to your strap width. If you plan to create a two-piece strap (a fabric front and elastic back) you will need to get another two rings so you have a way to connect the front strap to the back strap. Out of rings? No problem. You can substitute sliders for rings and you have a different and fully functional look.

Center Front Embellishment (optional)

The center front embellishment is used for decoration and to camouflage the stitching that seals the wire casing.

You can attach a variety of embellishments to the center front of your bra so feel free to get creative. In addition to bows, I have seen bras with ribbon flowers, custom covered buttons and even mini pom poms. When selecting an embellishment, just be aware that any bold or multi dimensional decoration may show through clothing.

Where to Buy

Because few of us can find bra making supplies in our local area, I have list of bra making materials suppliers on my resources page.



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have one made for your unique body
Article publié le 10/08/2017

The halloween costumes outlet Best Fitting Bra As you probably knew even before you read this, the best fitting bra is very hard to find. Every body is different and manufacturers only produce bras in a limited range of sellable sizes scaled from a single fit model. This is precisely why I became so interested in making custom bras. I believe the only way to get a bra that truly fits and supports is to have one made for your unique body.

We all know what a great fitting bra feels lingerie manufacturer china like; the best ones are like an extension of your body, almost weightless, and unnoticeable. What makes a bra fit perfectly? It is actually a combination of things. At its simplest, the best fitting bra completely encapsulates the breast tissue, bringing it out from under the arm and off the rib cage so the breasts are lifted to a front facing position. It does all of this while lying flat against the body with no wrinkles or ripples in the bra or on the body.

For a bra to achieve underwear manufacturer china perfect fit as a whole, each part of the bra must do its job. So let's take a look at each part of the bra and how it should fit.

(Note: it may be helpful to read Anatomy of a Bra before diving in here.)

Cups

The cups fully enclose the breast and are contoured to the individual wearers shape. Yes, there are degrees of coverage on the top of the breast, but the bottom portion of the cup must contain the breast entirely.

If the cups are too large, the breasts are not fully supported and will sag into the open spaces and the bra will look baggy. While this may be comfortable, the constant pull of gravity on the tissue surrounding the breasts leads to unattractive things in the future, not to mention what this does to the bodys overall profile right now. And there's more bad news: ill fitting cups can also allow the apex of the breast to point outward rather than straight ahead, also unattractive.

If the cups are too small, in addition to discomfort, the bra will not lie flat on the body it will be rippled and the wearers body may be too as it squeezes out from underneath the bra.

Bridge

The bridge spans the space between the breasts, lying flat against the body and putting the cups and underwires in precise position to hold and support the breasts. If the bridge is too wide, the cups are too far apart and the bra will stand away from the body, creating a sort of uni-cup that does not hold or support the breasts effectively. On the other hand, if the bridge is too small, the breasts are pinched together. The bridge is so important to the overall fit of the bra that a major part of my measurement process is spent on determining the bridge shape and size.

Band

From my Anatomy of a Bra post, you now know that the band of a bra is key to supporting the breasts. If the band is not wide enough to handle the pressure from supporting the breasts there are two ill effects. The first effect is that the job of supporting the breasts will be transferred to the straps, which can cause shoulder and even arm pain. The second effect is that the torso will flare out over the top of the band, which is an unattractive profile, even under clothing. While fashion bras almost universally have small bra bands, only small the small breasted can make do with one. Most women require a larger band to support their breasts.

The band should not be too tight or too loose but it should be snug. If the band is too loose, the bra can move around which usually means the breasts pull the back of the band up as they sag down in front. This may be comfortable, but the bra is clearly not doing its job. A band that is too tight will be uncomfortable and will pull the entire bra too tightly against the body leading to the body protruding around the bra.

Wires

The wires sit directly under the breasts, against the body and match the diameter of the breasts. This fit allows the wires to do their job of spreading the stress of breast support into the band. If wires are too small, they will dig into the breast tissue which is painful. If they are too large, they will dig into the body. If the wires dont fit correctly, they can also shift and twist. As you can imagine, ill fitting wires make for a long, uncomfortable day.

Because wires only made in a few lengths with a standard curve, it is difficult to find a good match off the rack. For my clients, I cut the wires to the proper size and reshape  them as necessary to match client dimensions.

Straps

Ideally bra straps should extend in a line from just outside the apex of the breast toward the mid point of the shoulder, however, many women prefer to wear their straps further out on the shoulder. So long as the back band is parallel to the floor and the bra cups are at the correct height for the wearer, this is not a problem.

Straps should not slide, move around or dig in to the shoulder or anywhere else. The wearer should barely notice they are there. If the straps dig into the shoulders, beyond the pain, over time a permanent divot can develop in that area.

As I mentioned in an earlier post, straps don't support the breasts – they just maintain the position of the band and cups. This is why a properly crafted strapless bra can do all the work of a well-fitting regular bra, but the strapless bra has to fit impeccably.


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same if you make a version like this one
Article publié le 10/08/2017

Fenway corsets wholesale Bra Sewing Inspiration P.S. I have heard from many of you who want an expanded size range for the Fenway bra! The more requests I receive the more likely it is that I will work on that project! 

Thank you for the enthusiastic response to the Fenway wholesale halloween costumes bra sewing pattern! I love the possibilities of all the different bras you can make with this new style. I thought I would share some of my inspiration to give you ideas for making your own Fenway bra.

Starting on the left hand side above, wholesale christmas costumes there are some great ideas in this pair of bras from Lonely Lingerie. In the black bra, a virtual upper cup is created using strap elastic that originates at the underwire casing on either side of the cup. There is also another strap that extends from the lower cup center seam (you can click through to Journelle to see this on a model). It may take a bit of playing around to get the length of that center elastic piece just so, but what a fun project!

Both Lonely Lingerie bras make use of a lace scallop edge for the lower cup. This could be done as an overlay, concealing the lower cup to upper cup seam as pictured in the yellow bra. Given the curves of the Fenway bra lower cup it may involve some lace piecing to get the same effect.

Sticking with the lace theme (because who does not love lace?!), the ID Sarrieri bra, pictured in the bottom right corner, uses a beautiful lace scallop edge for the neckline. This can be done with a simple pattern change. Just straighten out the neckline and then cut the neckline edge of the upper cup aligned with the valley of the lace scallops. I like to see that they stabilized the lace neckline and you should definitely do the same if you make a version like this one!

Finally, in the upper right hand corner is a bra by Lou Lingerie. (This is the same style as the headline image for this post.) I like the use of a print fabric with a fun trim along the neckline. Keep in mind that if you want to use a trim on your Fenway instead of fold over elastic, you will need to alter the pattern by adding a trim allowance to those areas. My bra sewing patterns all have the seam allowances and trim lines clearly marked so you can see where you need to make the adjustment!

Which version are you going to try next? Be sure to tag your Fenway bras with #fenwaybra so everyone can find yours!


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